Dehradun is the Winter Capital City of Uttarakhand. In this article, get to know the best places to visit! Rishikesh, Haridwar, Mussoorie – You got it all in one go!

---

Dehradun rightfully places itself as one of the most developed areas in Garhwal, ranging from shopping malls to branded shops, colleges to mini markets… Mountains are a bit far from the core of the city. Towards the outskirts of Malsi (the area around Malsi Deer Park), the city life gets soaked up and the mountains expand to where eyes cannot reach.

Rishikesh to Dehradun

Headed To the Capital City of Uttarakhand

Rishikesh to Dehradun. A major change in the landscape, especially after living and walking like a vagabond through the streets of Rishikesh for two weeks.

It is a city. A Capital with a ‘C’. I hitchhiked from Rishikesh on a scooty (I had to change vehicles twice in Rishikesh before a nice young man offered to give me a lift all the way). He dropped me off at the heart of Uttarakhand’s Capital City, in the middle of a busy life. I was exposed, out of nowhere, to the regularity of life I forgot existed.

My welcome to Dehradun was through two completely random events. First, a local guy stopped me on the road and asked me if my husband was coming to pick me up, since I am a woman and oh yes, alone. When I told him I travel solo and no, not married, he asked me at what age women in Kolkata get married. I will leave it to that.

Then I walked for a few kilometers and an old woman from a forgotten corner of a roadside temple called me out. As it so turned out, she had a sudden urge to speak to me, about something; anything. She thought I sold clothes (thanks to my 70-liter backpack and the multi-coloured local clothes I picked up from Rishikesh). She had no one to talk to and the lack of medicine was making her teeth worse.

It’s always a mix of random bends and curious faces. Together, and separately, they become one thing. Experience. I take pleasure in randomness.

Also read – ‘Tumaru Nau Kisso?’ – Living Rural Life in the Garhwal Region

Couchsurfing in Dehradun

In Dehradun, the Capital City of Uttarakhand, I had my second Couchsurfing experience (the first one was in Delhi). For those of you who don’t know what Couchsurfing is, it’s a community or a medium of hospitality exchange. You can stay at a stranger’s home without having to pay in monetary terms; more like a guest, and get a deeper understanding of the local culture, if you are open to it.

My host Gaurav’s house was out of route, in the suburbs of Dehradun. Living in Malsi for two days came with the assurance of a silent and soothing life. It’s away from the chaos, away from the heart. The mountains are nearby. Gucchu Pani is a walk away.

Yet a small glitch changed the course. My host’s sister died and he had to go back to Haridwar. I moved to a dorm, which ironically was inside the famous (and the most chaotic) market, Paltan Market. Initially, my state of being was overwhelmed (and terrified) by the outstanding commotion of a city-life. With decaying minutes and a balanced diet, I understood the importance of taking in everything a place has to offer, even if it doesn’t synchronize with me, at that moment. It was to be for two days anyways.

---

But… It was all green. Left or right, North or South – my eyes had one singular vision in sight. The vision of green. My leisurely ten days in the campsite inside Brentwood Sanctuary in Mussoorie, a lesser-known getaway from Dehradun (the campsite itself is also called Brentwood Sanctuary) were elevated with nature baths in the stream in passing.

---

Best Places to Visit in Uttarakhand’s Winter Capital City

Uttarakhand’s Capital City can be a one-day stop for you in your Rishikesh-Haridwar-Dehradun-Mussoorie itinerary for the Garhwal region. It is not much of a travel novelty, but be sure to take a look around Gucchu Pani and Sahastradhara. This city would remain just another concrete space if you miss out on these two places! Even then, for me, Dehradun was not worth it!

1. Gucchu Pani

Entry Fee – There’s an entry fee of Rs. 30 and an additional charge of Rs. 10 for borrowing sandals to ease through the cold water. You can also keep your shoes under the supervision of the coffee vendors near the cave.

Timings – 7 am to 7:30 pm

Distance from City Centre – 7 km

Gucchu Pani, located near Malsi (8 km away from Dehradun), is a natural cave formation extending for 600 meters. The British named it ‘Robber’s Cave‘ as it was believed that the robbers used to take shelter inside this cave after robbery.

Cold Streams of water flow through this beautiful gorge. The rift makes way for the visitors to walk in ankle-high cold water with the limestone wall-formations all around. At narrow corners, thin sprinkles bounce on the uneven walls and make small silver unshaped blueprints. In a lot of places, the stones have brown-and-faded-red footprints of water bygone. The cave leads to a spring beyond which you cannot go. Water, as the way it should be, has the strongest current here.

2. Clock Tower – Just A Passing Relic

Distance from City Centre – 1 km

Located at the absolute heart of the State Capital, Clock Tower, or ‘Ghanta Ghar‘ is a British relic the construction of which was completed in 1953. Incidentally, I reached Clock Tower exactly at 10 am and the clock let me know the time with its loud chimes resonating ten times. Cars and daily lives race through the busy streets of Dehradun circling the tower.

3. Paltan Market – To Feel the Chaos of Uttarakhand

Distance from City Centre – 0 km

The shopping hub, Paltan Market, stretching for 1.5 km, starts from Clock Tower and ends at the railway station. Being the primary market, it has a wide variety of things to offer – local spices, street food, apparel, and confectionery items. This is where you will feel the capitalization of the Capital.

4. Forest Research Institute – Old Treasures!

Entry Fee – There’s an entry fee of Rs. 40.

Timing – It remains open from 9:30 am to 5 pm.

Distance from City Centre – 4 km

Established in 1906, Forest Research Institute (FRI) is deemed one of the oldest institutes conducting forestry research. For visitors, there is a rich museum comprising six segments of detailed research on plantations. 

Due to the pandemic, the museum was closed to visitors indefinitely. But I am sure it’s open now!

5. Sahastradhara – Getting Touristy by the Day!

Timing – 8 am to 7 pm

Distance from City Centre – 12 km

Situated almost 14 km away from Dehradun, crossing Robber’s Cave, Sahastradhara is a spring of ‘thousand-fold’ (that being the literal meaning). High on the level of sulfur, the spring is believed to have therapeutic values.

This sulfur spring cascades through limestone formations; a quick dip in the water can keep you cool and pleasant throughout the day. Sahastradhara is comfortably nestled away from the buzzing city, and it certainly is a traveller’s choice for more of a calm surrounding. But with its growing popularity, it is also becoming very touristy.

Also read – Invited to A Garhwali Wedding in Ghori Khal Village

Which Places to Add to Your Dehradun Itinerary?

Dehradun often is jotted with a few other places on the same route in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. While Uttarakhand’s Winter Capital City can easily be covered in a day or two (I would advise spending two days; one day for Gucchu Pani-Sahastradhara; and another for Forest Research Institute), the rest of your trip can have a different flavour with these places around: Rishikesh, Haridwar, and Mussoorie.

1. A Walk in Rishikesh – A Balm on the Capital-Hustle

43 km away from Dehradun, Rishikesh, revered for its Ganga Ghats and the title of ”The Yoga Capital of the World”, is where sanctity, good food, and semi-urban allocations come together. From famous cafes (Little Buddha Cafe, 60’s Cafe) to rows of ashrams (The Beatles Ashram, Dayanand Ashram), Rishikesh has become a readymade touristic place over time for good (or not) reasons.

Also read – Best Places to Visit in Rishikesh

2. A New Setting in Haridwar

Ashrams, ghats, narrow alleys showcasing Babas (lots and lots and LOTS of them, but the essence of Haridwar is in its variety of Babas, you will know what I mean once you step onto the streets) – Haridwar lies only 54 km away from Dehradun and 26 km away from Rishikesh.

The reason I preferred not to write a typical travel guide for Haridwar is that Haridwar is a perpetual cord of Ghats, and the best way to know Haridwar is to not know anything. Like that time my Couchsurfing host took me to an ashram where I had my favorite Bengali dish in a Bengali community, and introduced me to a woman straight out of a storybook. Let things take its course. We don’t always have to know how things will shape up.

Know what I mean? The interesting people, and the interesting stories.

---

Towards the outskirts of Malsi (the area around Malsi Deer Park), the city life gets soaked up and the mountains expand to where eyes cannot reach.

---

3. Flee the Capital City & Go Offbeat in Mussoorie

In your Dehradun travel guide, the immediate call for action would be Mussoorie. What can you think of when you hear Mussoorie? Kempty Falls, I believe? Kempty Falls, Mall Road, Mussoorie Lake – You know it all. Believe me when I say this – you won’t get a moment of ‘whoof’ (relief) at Kempty Falls, no matter how gorgeous it is. The human heads, wet clothes in wet bodies look very much part of the waterfall now. There really is no moment.

Before I forget, do not visit the K Dev-Bhoomi Wax Museum. It’s the worst thing you can do to yourself. The wax statues do not resemble the people they claim to be! I don’t know what they were thinking!

Don’t believe me? Check out the picture above! Who do you think he is? (Hint: He looks like Shashi Tharoor, but it’s actually Mr. Bean!)

But… It was all green. Left or right, North or South – my eyes had one singular vision in sight. The vision of green. My leisurely ten days in the campsite inside Brentwood Sanctuary in Mussoorie, a lesser-known getaway from Dehradun (the campsite itself is also called Brentwood Sanctuary) were elevated with nature baths in the stream in passing. This stream is also a contributor to the famous Kempty Falls. So technically speaking, you get to bathe in Kempty Falls without the overpowering crowd overpouring all over you.

Located near Lake Mist, Brentwood Sanctuary would make you look at Mussoorie in a much more serene light.

There you go! A thorough guide to Uttarakhand’s Winter Capital!

Also read – The Alaknanda-Bhagirathi Sangam at Devprayag

How to Reach Uttarakhand’s Capital City

By bus: If Delhi is your base, direct buses connect Delhi to Dehradun. You can also take local buses from all the primary cities in Uttarakhand, such as Rishikesh, Devprayag, Haridwar and so. There’s no need to book the bus beforehand.

By flight: Located around 22 km southeast, Jolly Grant Airport primarily connects Dehradun to almost all major domestic destinations.

By train: Dehradun Railway Station is the nearest railhead. The railway station is situated at a distance of about 2 km from the city center. Major cities like Delhi, Kolkata, and Varanasi are properly connected by regular as well as frequent train services from the main city. Local buses will drop you off at the core from the railway station.

Also read – Tungnath Trek – Surviving A Snowstorm at Chandrashila

Where to Stay in Dehradun

Wondering where to stay in Dehradun? Here are some suggestions.

Dormitory for Budget Travellers

• It is a hard-core city, immensely populated with big hotels and guesthouses. But if you are on a budget, the cheapest dorm is inside Paltan Market. The dorm ‘The Trekkers Hostel’ is an extension of a hotel in Paltan Market, and it’s an easygoing place to spend a night or two! Don’t expect too much.
• 9Backpackers
• Nomad’s House

Homestays in Dehradun

Here are some of the homestays you can stay at in Dehradun. Mind you, I personally haven’t stayed there.

• Mango Tree Courtyard

• Nandini Homestay

• Stayable Homestay

---

Now that you have read through the guide on the Winter Capital City of Uttarakhand, click here to find these places on Google Maps.

Have you been around Dehradun? Share your experiences!

Support my solo adventures around the globe by joining the Patreon community.