A narrative around the temples in Bhubaneswar, situated in the Eastern Indian State of Odisha. Kalingan architecture, classical dance, tribal villages, temples, and the sea close-by.

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When the national anthem of India ‘Jana Gana Mana’ plays in the distant background, you come across ‘Utkala’ in the second line, right? Well, that’s Odisha, home to the largest population of the Scheduled Tribes in India.

The artifacts and the architecture; all have descended from the ancient kingdom of Kalinga. Way before Bhubaneswar was advocated the title of ‘The Capital of Odisha’, Cuttack ruled the region as the capital until 1948.

Odia is the predominant language spoken throughout Odisha except for the indigenous dialects originating from the tribal areas. This is the only State in India where I have seen every single sign, placard, advertisement, and bus number, written in the regional language, Odia. Few of the shops and buses have English translations as well, but never without their own language. With the growing ‘trend’ among urban Indians to rather speak English with another native than their own language (except for South India), Odisha impressed me with its daily language.

Bhubaneswar in Odisha is not like your next-door capital city. It has not been long since the roads have been constructed and paved. The shopping malls are comparatively new, as part of the Government’s mission to make it a ‘smart city’. But that’s the new, ‘developed’ part of the city. The old part still retains Kalingan temples, dotted throughout a single path where the bend ends in one or the other temple.

Still it only attracts the local handfuls, and an overbearing crowd of Bengalis (Odisha being very close to Bengal). Nothing much is said about tourism in Odisha. But it won’t be unjust of me to say that it has one of the most distinct architectural patterns in India, the temples can speak for themselves, clear and loud.

I am willing to go back again to explore the tribal villages, but for now, I witness the temples in Bhubaneswar and the sea in Puri.

You can skip the ‘smart city’ bit.

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How was my Journey to Bhubaneswar?

A tiny seat and the discomfort throughout the night! The seat was so small that it could mindfully make way for my butt, and my backpack had to be kept on the floor! It was an obligatory choice to book an overnight ticket for a 22-hour-long journey from Ranchi to Bhubaneswar, in a general compartment! December is a peak season for travelling, and everything else was already booked!

I held on to myself all through the night, knowing that this choice was inherent to be in continuity. And my Couchsurfing host made it all rather smooth for me. From picking me up in his car at 5:30 am, to placing me in an overindulging streak of perks, the Kalingan architecture of Odisha stupefied me, with a growing interest to meet the tribal communities.

My host, almost 70 years of age, had a long life of travelling and misfits, from African jungles to the threshold of the tribes. He is also the one to map out half of the city of Bhubaneswar. His knowledge of the roads was so intimate that he drew a handwritten map for me!

Need Reasons to Visit Bhubaneswar?

1. Pay A Visit to The Museum of Tribal Arts

Established in 1953, The Tribal Museum of Odisha is under the highway at the CRP Square. Odisha has its own National Museum, but the Tribal Museum would give you much emphatic insight into over 60 tribal communities in Odisha. They have claimed that the replica of the tribal dwellings installed on the museum premises is much the same; so are their attire, ornaments, traditions, and food habits.

Husking lever, carrying pole, straw collector, spear, axe, sword, knife, fish trap, fishing net, bow, and arrow – they have preserved all the tribal belongings of Odisha. Also, paddy & bamboo craft (Bhottada, Lodha), Dharua textile, wine pipe, tobacco pipe; and paintings of Juang, Lanjia Saora, Gond, Santal, and Kodha – everything is preserved in this museum in Bhubaneswar.

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Archeologists believe that 117 caves were excavated, but 33 caves are now existent in the hills of Odisha. Hatigumpha inscription, consisting of 17 lines in Brahmi letters, has been incised in the interior of the caves.

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2. Temples in the Old Town of Bhubaneswar

1. Kotiteertheswara Temple (11th Century AD)

This temple was built by the Somavansi Kings in Kalinga pancharatha style in 11th century AD. The name deciphers that a dip in Kotiteertha Tank followed by worship of the linga in the sanctum is equal to one crore pilgrimages. It is constructed in pidha (pyramidal) style and bears turrets on the spire. During the Dhamanaka Chaturdashi festival of Chaitra month, the moving representation of Lord Lingaraja (known as Chandrasekhara) is carried to this temple for worship.

2. Mukteswara Temple

Mukteswara Temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Odisha showcasing an elegantly ornate facade that commemorates the transition between the earlier and mature temples of Odisha. Hence, it is famously known as the ‘Gem of Kalingan Architecture’. The exquisite Torana, the only of its kind in Bhubaneswar, is one of the notable features of this temple. As one steps in, one can find the architectural plan engraved on the temple floor. One out of the six shrines in the front is of Khakra order. Siddheswara Temple is situated on the northwest edge of the complex consisting of both Vimana and jagamohana.

3. Parsurameswara Temple

Parsurameswara is said to be one of the earliest intact temples in Bhubaneswar Odisha. The temple is lavishly decorated in triradha plan, having a vimana and a jagamohana. Parsurameswara was originally named after a Lakulisa teacher and it was called Parasavara. Apart from the depictions of Lakulisa, there are also images of Durga, Nataraja, Surya, Saptamatrika, musicians, and dikpala deities. The episodes of Shiva occur in three different places in the main temple. The first in the front face, just above the Jagamohana shows the scene of Ravana raising Mount Kailash. The second episode is that of Annapurna offering alms to Shiva and the third is of Shiva’s marriage scene.

4. Ananta Vasudeva Temple

Built by Queen Chandrika, Ananta Vasudeva Temple is a beautiful 13th-century shrine on the banks of Bindu Sagar. The intricate carvings, even though resembling the neighboring temples, are lavish in brilliance and unique in contour.

5. Lingaraj Temple in Bhubaneswar

Timings – 5 am to 9 pm

The largest temple in Bhubaneswar, Lingaraj Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and was built in the 7th Century. Mythologically important, as the idol here is believed to have appeared naturally, structuring a height of 8 inches above the ground and a diameter of 8 feet. A spectacle of the Odisha style of architecture with a hint of Kalingan architecture, the temple has been carved out of the darkest shade of sandstone.

6. Kedar Gauri

An example of Kalingan Architecture of Odisha, Kedareswara is popularly known as Kedar Gauri. The lingam is named Dakshina Murti and is believed to have been installed by Giriraj Himalaya. Built in panchayatana style, the temple has both vimana and pyramidal jagamohana. Within the complex is located Gauri temple, built in the 10th century in Khakra order.

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3. Caves in Bhubaneswer

Khandagiri and Udaigiri Caves, artificially made by Jain and Buddhist monks in the 2nd Century, were once the refuge of these monks for prayers and meditation. Alternatively known as Cuttack Caves, these caves reside on two adjacent hills in Bhubaneswar. Khandagiri and Udaigiri have 15 and 18 caves respectively.

One of these caves, Ranigumpha, stands out for its two-storeyed monastery. Archeologists believe that 117 caves were excavated, but 33 caves are now existent in the hills of Odisha. Hatigumpha inscription, consisting of 17 lines in Brahmi letters, has been incised in the interior of the caves.

4. Bindu Sarovar is the Central Lake

Situated in the vicinity of the ancient temples of the old town, Bindu Sagar is a water tank revered for its religious roots. A nice walk around the lake in a circle would be just about right to have an ancient tour of the temples.

5. The National Museum of Odisha – Orissa State Museum

Being the State Museum of Bhubaneswar, Orissa State Museum preserves a wide collection of ancient art and craft. A gallery full of posters from the Odia film industry really stood out for me.

One of the most important sections of the museum is epigraphy. It deals with the inscriptions engraved on stone, metal, and materials like wood and shell. Inscriptions are the main source materials for reconstructing the glorious past of a country or culture. The epigraphy section has a proud collection of epigraphical antiquities ranging from the earliest historical inscriptions of the 3rd century BC to about the 18th Century AD. This section of Odisha National Museum at present possesses 119 copper plates, 24 stone inscriptions, and a larger number of plaster cast estampages of original inscriptions. The alphabetical chart and numerical chart present an overview of the evolution of letters and numbers.

6. Sea Beach in Puri, Odisha

Only 60 km away from Bhubaneswar, Puri, the coastal city in Odisha, is a heritage site. The pilgrim town is famous for the Ratha Yatra celebration, and for being the house to Jagannath Temple, Lokanath Temple, Vimala Temple, Gundicha Temple, and so on. Along the coastline of the Bay of Bengal, in Puri Beach, the shores take up different names. Balighai Beach, Baleshwar Beach, Baliharachandi Beach, Swargadwar Beach, Astaranga Beach, and quite a few.

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Mukteswara Temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Bhubaneshwar showcasing an elegantly ornate facade that commemorates the transition between the earlier and mature temples of Odisha. Hence, it is famously known as the ‘Gem of Kalingan Architecture’.

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What Should You Must Try in Bhubaneswar?

At Ananta Vasudeva Temple, traditional Odia food is served in banana leaves for Rs. 80-200. You should definitely try out the prashad here if you are in Odisha.

How would you Reach Bhubaneswar?

By road: As you very well know, Odisha is located in the eastern part of India, so connectivity by road from the southern, northern, and western states directly is not possible. Several bus stops in Bhubaneswar only cater to tourists coming from nearby cities or states. There really is no direct connectivity by road from far-off cities or states. Private and government-run buses are available within the city.

By flight: Odisha has one major international airport in Bhubaneswar for both international and domestic flights. Biju Patnaik International Airport is the only airport used for flying passengers from every corner of the world. Airlines such as Air India, IndiGo, AirAsia, Vistara, SpiceJet, and so on operate on a regular basis from different cities of India. The airport is located only 6 kilometers away from the city center.

By train: There are several local railway stations all over Odisha, the premier one being Bhubaneswar Railway Station. The railway station is well-connected to most of the other Indian States. Some of the major trains that work on this route are Rajdhani Express, Konark Express, and Coromandel Express. Travel by rail is the most convenient method for domestic tourists in Odisha.

(If Indian Temple Architecture interests you, read this extensive article by Cultural India).

Where to Stay in Bhubaneswar?

Homestays for Private Rooms

• Nabagunjara Terrace

• Sublime Homestay

• Svanir Wilderness Homestay

• Tranquil Hospitality

Couchsurfing for A Local Experience

• Sunil Bhagwani, highly recommended. You would have a really good time in his apartment. He lives with his fifteen-year-old daughter. I remember the karaoke nights, arranged more or less every evening, and how I had to sing in a mic for the first time!

• Susanta Barik in Puri, absolutely not recommended. The bus was running late, and it looked like I would arrive four-five hours late. I felt bad that they would have to wait for me, as they had other plans on that day (it was Christmas!). So, I told him not to wait up, I would see them in the evening when they come back. Till then, I thought I would move around the city. Well, he cancelled on me at the last moment despite agreeing on that. I had to reshuffle my day. I don’t think he would be a reliable host.

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Now that you have read the travel guide to the temples in Bhubaneswar, click here to find all the places to visit on Google Maps.

Have you visited the temples of Odisha?

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