A Vegetarian’s Guide to Newari Food in Kathmandu

Newari is the primary cuisine in Kathmandu. Even though Newari food is more for the meat-eaters, vegetarians can have their share too!

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A Preface to Newari Food

Newaris are the inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley in Nepal. And Newari food can be found anywhere around Kathmandu. Restaurants, and cafes, especially the ‘khaja ghars‘ all have the staple food of Nepal, Daal-Bhat.

However, the food structure changes in the Kathmandu Valley periphery. The staples of this local Nepali cuisine inhabit the local households and the swarming streets of Kathmandu, parallelly.

Everywhere I stole a glance at, had buffalo on the streetside food menus or outside the food-boards of the restaurants. That was my first day in the Newari territory! BUFF MOMO! At first, I could not quite figure out what that ‘buff’ is! In India, the list of Momo varieties in standard kitchens would more or less be Veg Momo, Chicken Momo, Mutton Momo, Schezwan… and blah blah blah, with the upgradation of the food joint. But not Buffalo Momo!

Buffalo is both revered and ingested (and digested) by the residents of Kathmandu. Even though Newari food appends vegetarian dishes to non-vegetarian refreshments, their cuisine predominantly is for meat-eaters. Newaris are notorious for extravagant feasting (I even attended a traditional wedding), and there’re always more meat-items than veggies.

In the Tantric tradition, animal sacrifice and alcohol consumption are not permitted but prescribed for the sake of cultural indulgence. In the line of Tantric delegation, and by the beliefs of the Newari people, Tantric Gods crave blood and alcohol, and without animal sacrifices, they would not subside their yearnings. The beliefs of the Tantric tradition give in to the commonalities that are more of anathemas to the ascetic traditions of Hinduism and Buddhism in Nepal.

Newari food is favoured as spice-smitten! Cumins, turmeric, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, garlic, chilies, mustard oil, and seeds – spices are inherent to the soul of their cuisine. For vegetarian dishes, potatoes, eggplant, chickpeas, lentils, cauliflower, and mustard greens are the bread and butter. Chura (Beaten Rice) is the staple food of this subsidiary food culture of Nepal.

Also read – Practical Things to Know Before Visiting Nepal

Newari Food in Kathmandu – Samaya Baji (Newari Khaja)

Samaya Baji, or the most traditional dish of the Newari cuisine, is more widely served in all restaurants of Kathmandu Valley. The Newari Khaja Set symbolizes prosperity, good luck, health, and longevity. Even though it is rather a common-some dish in restaurants, the concept of such a lumpsum feast originated from the farming community of the Newars. As the farmers had to work in farms for the larger part of the day, they would prefer to have two meals a day that do not require much heating up or recooking. This sumptuous meal would keep them full and energized for a whole day of work. On Newari occasions, Samaya Baji is served on a leaf plate (bote) in rather a traditional manner.

What’s there on that plate?

• Chuira (beaten rice)
• Bara (Lentil Patties)
• Chhoyela (Barbecued and marinated buffalo)
• Bhatmas (Black Soybeans)
• Ginger & Garlic
• Saag
• Alu Sandeko
• Alu Tama (Potato and Boiled Shoots Curry)
• Aila (Homemade Liquor)

What are the spices used in Newari Khaja?

Szechwan pepper, black salt, Himalayan pink salt, mustard, mustard oil, and fenugreek seeds with turmeric powder – The Khaja Set is rich in spices. Having Chhoyela (buffalo meat) in the set should not come in the way of a vegetarian willing to taste the most elaborate Newari food. You can skip on Chhoyela and relish the rest. Samaya Baji is not only filling, it also has the Vitamin B of beaten rice, the stress and high blood pressure minimizing effects of Bhatmas, further strengthening the human bones.

Also read – An Extensive Guide to the Best Places to Visit in Nepal

Momos of Nepal – A Part of Newari Cuisine Now

Momo. Enough to make the Nepalis salivate. Momos are steamed dumplings (also fried sometimes) relished, not just in the Newari cuisine, but all over South Asia, a daily delicacy to the Himalayan regions. The Himalayan countries like India, Nepal, Tibet, and Bhutan have Momos all over them, while in Japan and China, Momos sometimes borrow colloquial names.

Momos are generally soft doughs stuffed with veggie-or-meat filling and shaped in the likeness of a crescent ball with wrecked edges.

Momo in Nepal transverses the general line of Veg-Momo-Chicken-Momo-Mutton-Momo; even Buffalo Momo. In the vegetarian genre, Momo in the Newari kitchens is extremely diverse and innovative (imagine having a plateful of Green Momo!). By the way, in Nepal, it’s no longer ‘Momo’, it’s ‘Mo:Mo’.

1. Steamed Mo:Mo

Being an Asian, you are more than familiar with the most popular kind of Momo, not just in Nepal but all over South Asia. And that is Steamed Momo. These scrumptious juicy Momos are generally filled with minced veggies sauntered with spices, and wrapped in white coats. These little balls are served with fiery (and I mean SPICY!) Chutney as a Tibetan-juxtaposition in Newari food.

2. Kothey Mo:Mo – Part of Newari Food

You have your Steamed Momo. You have your Fried Momo. And then mixing the two kinds becomes Kothey Momo. These dumplings are half-steamed and half-fried, and more elongated than the standard size of Momos.

3. Chilly Mo:Mo

Word of caution, Newari cuisine is hot-headed spicy, and not for those with a weak stomach. I don’t think anything except Chatamari was below the spicy borderline. Chilly Momo is no exception. It is your regular Steamed Momo dipped in spicy sauce. Chilly Momo in Newar is commonly known as C, and it is a must-try for the spice-indulgers.

4. Green Mo:Mo – Newari Favourite in Kathmandu

Devouring Green Momo as part of Newari cuisine to me was the most innovative Mo:Mo-experience. In my hometown India, Momo can easily almost fall under the-most-common-dish radar, but Momo, that’s really green, is a no-show. The green colour is from Spinach, that’s mixed with flour and kneaded with spinach water.

5. Jhol Mo:Mo

Jhol is a bowl of liquids that falls somewhere between soup and sauce. The Momo balls are drowned in a bowl of what’s called jhol achar. Jhol Mo:Mo is served everywhere in Kathmandu Valley as a popular Newari dish, let it be Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, or the main city of Kathmandu.

6. Open Mo:Mo

Open Mo:Mo, another innovative Momo-innovation in the lot, is unbarred from the top. The stuffing, as you can see, gets enough ventilation through its opening. Open Momo is preferred in Ghangri Sui Mai in Kathmandu.

7. Buckwheat Mo:Mo

More nutritious with the protein, fiber, and energy of buckwheat, Buckwheat Mo:Mo is more sustainable and healthy than the other varieties of Momo. Not quite as easily accessible as the other Newari delicacies, it can be tasted at Alice Restaurant.

8. Dhapu Mo:Mo (Tibetan Momo)

Dhapu Momo would win the race with its other kinds. They are gigantic and considered to be more Tibetan than Newari and a close version of Chinese Da Bao.

Even though Momos originated from Tibet, over time Momo has established itself as part of Newari cuisine. Not only Newari but Momo also has a strong hold all over Nepal and many Asian countries.

Also read – Things to Do in Pokhara Nepal As A Tourist

Newari Food – Sweets and Deserts

• Sel Roti
• Yomari
• Rasbhari
• Juju Dhau
• Lakhamari
• Haluwa
• Gundpakh
• Khajuri
• Jeri

Newari Food I Had in Kathmandu

More of Newari food? Apart from all kinds of Mo:Mo and the grand feast of Newari Khaja Set, I also savoured a few other dishes of Kathmandu Valley.

Chatamari in Lalitpur

Lalitpur is one of the most special food hubs in Kathmandu Valley. And I could not but help try the Newari snack Chatamari in one of the oldest Buddhist towns of Nepal. As the manager of the restaurant quoted, ‘more like Newari pizza’, but without the toppings! You can have Plain Chatamari, Egg Chatamari, or Chicken Chatamari for Rs. 250, Rs. 300, and Rs. 450 respectively.

Mushroom Sadeko in Kathmandu

As a vegetarian, you can try different varieties of Sadeko in Newari cuisine – Alu Sadeko, Mushroom Sadeko, and Peanut Sadeko.

Also read – Patan – The Age-Old Buddhist Town in Nepal

Juju Dhau in Bhaktapur – Newari Food

Juju Dhau, the ‘King of Curds’ is a Bhaktapur-special curd-treat. Juju Dhau is generally prepared from buffalo milk. At first, buffalo milk is boiled; then it is poured into a traditional clay pot which is known as “kataura”. Clay pots must be warm but prior to this process, clay pots are drowned in water to prevent them from absorbing milk from the curd. No sugar is added to bring sweetness to the curd but spices like cardamom, coconut, etc are mixed to create mouth-melting sweetness.

Aila (Homemade Alcohol) – The Drink of the Newari

Aila is a homemade alcoholic beverage made by distillation of fermented rice, grain, and millet. Like all the Newari liquors, it’s really strong and burns through the throat!

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Would you taste the local Newari food in Kathmandu? As a vegetarian, how has your experience been with Newari food?

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