Travelling across Punjab India – Chandigarh, Amritsar and More
Travelling across Punjab in India – Punjabi culture, weather, what to do and not to do – The complete itinerary to travel hassle-free across Punjab.
Two weeks, five cities – Chandigarh, Ludhiana, Patiala, Jalandhar, and Amritsar. Punjab happened on a fluke. In fact, only after I reached Chandigarh, did my decision, and desire, to backpack further truly spring up, through a back-and-forth contradictory weather-decision.
When Himachal is your point of departure, humid Punjab in August seems an unnecessary and burdensome adventure to carry forward. The humidity was such a blow to my pahadi-conditioned state of the body that it became partially intolerable at times! Even though Himachal, to the local’s surprise, was pretty much boiling in July, the month of early monsoons, the heat in the mountains differs in intensity from the dense and frustrating chunks of physical heat in the plains. Still, I decided to move further, since I was already in the State, and I had always been fascinated by Punjab, and certain aspects of it (Sardar ji in a tracker, for a starter).
Why You Should Visit Punjab in India
If you are a history-enthusiast, you should visit Punjab. Punjab, the remnant of partition, stands tall on its history of Sikh sacrifice and the existing continuity of its living fervour. Central Sikh Museum in The Golden Temple premises houses large paintings depicted by an eye-witness of the excruciating history of Sikhs we are well aware of. With a mic and instruments in hand, under the wavering roof of silk, men in the Gurudwara dole out stories of Amritsar. Bit by bit. The old cities like Patiala and Amritsar, retaining the old, have so much to recapitulate – from the sacred land of Jallianwala Bagh to historical monuments, from mosques to Gurudwaras.
If you are an architecture-enthusiast, this is again the place for you. History and architecture somehow always follow through. The rest of Punjab demarks the isolated land of Chandigarh. Chandigarh is the conceptualized and meticulously-planned brainchild of a Swiss-French Modernist Architect, Le Corbusier, and even though it went wrong at times, the making of Chandigarh is reflected in the present working of Chandigarh. Lavish green sidewalks, Capitol Complex, clean surroundings – then why didn’t I find a heart in there? It was like a beautiful breathless body.
To delve into Punjabi culture. I had a severe cultural shock in Punjab, coupled with the sudden environmental change, and the procession of cars and people. To top it all off, our Couchsurfing host invited us to a nightclub and I got to experience Punjabi nightlife, an in-built ‘culture’ that suffocated me to my core. After wandering in the wilderness of the mountains for seven months and suddenly falling against the city wall, I was lost as fuck!
Ludhiana, an industrial town, was to be my pit-stop for the next night, but it couldn’t be. The Couchsurfing host I had contacted turned out to be a sex predator, willing to take me to a hotel room rather than to his family. Long story short, I did not stay in Ludhiana and aimed for Patiala instead. And here in Patiala, I found what I was looking for. Patiala – The Royal City in Punjab bestowed more chaos and disarray than Chandigarh, yet walking the dingy streets in knee-length water with the hurly-burly of the Sikh population placed me in the lap of the real Punjab. This is what I wanted to meet. The Heritage fervour, Quila Mubarak, Chole Kulcha, visiting my first Gurudwara in Punjab. Yet I missed out on Bhangra and Sarson Da Saag (as it is only seasonal) and so much more!
Also read – Volunteer Tourism And How It Can Shift Your Travel Experiences
A Nine-Day Itinerary for Punjab
Here, I’ve prepared a nine-day itinerary for you to travel across Punjab. For a quick and highlighted itinerary, head to the next section.
Day 1 – Delhi to Chandigarh
Depending on your choice of transportation, train, bus, or flight, you can reach Chandigarh from Delhi (or any other city) and stay the night there.
Day 2 – Sightseeing in Chandigarh
Spend the day exploring the gardens of Chandigarh in Punjab. Yes, Chandigarh has a lot of well-planned gardens! You can take pleasant strolls on the boulevards. Chandigarh, being one of the less polluted cities in India, is filled with green sidewalks and kid-friendly playgrounds. Rock Garden, Capitol Complex, and a lot more can be visited in a day, as they are mostly in close quarters.
Day 3 – Chandigarh to Patiala
In order to reach Patiala in Punjab, you need to break your journey in Ludhiana. Both the local buses from ‘Chandigarh to Ludhiana’ and ‘Ludhiana to Patiala’ are available from the bus stands.
Or, more conveniently, you can board a local train from Chandigarh Railway Station to Patiala Railway Station. It would take around 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Day 4 – Explore Patiala
Quila Mubarak, Sheesh Mahal, and the streets of Patiala can be explored in a day. Don’t forget Patiala’s famous (or infamous) ‘Patiala Peg’ to complement the rainy season.
Day 5 – Patiala to Amritsar
Or, you can take the local train from Patiala Railway Station to Amritsar Junction for the upcoming 6-7 hours of journey.
Day 6 – The First Day in Amritsar
The Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh, Hall Bazaar, and Partition Museum in Punjab can be visited in a single day. They all are on the same premises. Details about the places are in the upcoming sections.
Day 7 – The Second Day in Amritsar
Wagah Border, the India-Pakistan Border should be visited separately.
Day 8 – The Third Day in Amritsar
Visit Gobindgarh Fort and spend the rest of the day shopping Amritsari Jutti (and plenty of other things) from Hall Bazaar.
Day 9 – Amritsar to Delhi
Yeah, your trip to Punjab is over now!
A Quick Five-Day Itinerary for Amritsar Only
Day 1 – Delhi to Amritsar
Day 2 – The Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh, Hall Bazaar and Partition Museum
Day 3 – Wagah Border
Day 4 – Gobindgarh Fort
Day 5 – Amritsar to Delhi
Also read – Sustainable Ways to Explore Gujarat on Your Travels
Food in Punjab – Punjab Da Treat (Veg Only)
Spicy and lavishly spread all over India, Punjabi cuisine is not particularly a new-addition for a fellow Indian. Yet savouring Punjabi food in Punjab has all the charm, particularly in Patiala and Amritsar, which are famous among food-lovers for street food. And it’s cheap!
I got food poisoning, and I deserve it!
Chole Kulche – Patiala is incomplete without its famous street food, Chole Kulche. For Rs. 30, you get two kulchas, which are absolutely different from general kulchas. It’s more like Pav Bhaji with fillings of chole.
Amritsari Kulcha – Mixed-veggies filling, served with pickle and chutney, Amritsari Kulcha is a must-have in Amritsar Punjab.
Kulfa – No, Punjab doesn’t serve Kulfi, the traditional frozen dessert famous in India. Instead, it dishes out Kulfa, the Punjabi version of Kulfi. It’s basically the same thing! (Kulfa is best in Hall Bazaar, Amritsar)
Aloo Paratha – If you are from any part of India, you probably had Aloo Paratha in your day-to-day lives quite often. Aloo Paratha has almost become a popular breakfast all across North India. Yet, isn’t it fun to have Aloo Paratha with a cube of butter and a bowl of Raita at a roadside Punjabi Dhaba? (again reminding, food poisoning)
Missi Roti – Missi Roti is a North Indian delight made with a mix of whole wheat flour, gram flour, and spices.
Sarson Da Saag and Makki Ki Roti – Sarson Da Saag, the specialty of Punjabi foodie culture, is the seasonal staple food in Punjab. Makki Ki Roti is always escorted by Sarson Da Saag. Remember that you can only taste Sarson Da Saag during the mustard season. And yeah, I missed it! (But I had it later in Uttar Pradesh, so many times!)
Kada Prashad – If you have ever been to a Gurudwara, you probably had been handed over a piece of sweet at the end, that’s Kada Prashad. A combination of sooji, sugar, and butter – this halwa is served in The Golden Temple and all Gurudwaras.
Pakoda Kadhi – The Punjabi Kadhi is very different from Gujarati Kadhi. It’s tangier and spicier, dotted with besan pakoras!
Apart from the above-mentioned delicacies, you can always try out Chole Bhature, Rajma-Chawal, Dal Makhani, Paneer Butter Masala (and a lot of Paneer items), and lassi or Chaanch in Punjab!
Places to Visit in Amritsar
1. The Golden Temple in Amritsar
Timings – 4 am to 11 pm (Langar is open 24×7)
Sri Harminder Sahib, also known as The Golden Temple, alone attracts more tourists to Amritsar than all of Punjab. The premise is giddily surrounded by people travelling from distant lands either to be absorbed in the religious courtesies or the architectural brilliance. Apart from the temple, the area is shared by several Gurudwaras, Langar Hall, Amrit Sarovar, and the Central Sikh Museum.
Adorned in traditional Sikh attire, the man in blue tied the yellowish-orange piece of cloth around my head. And for half of the day I sat at a corner, sometimes took a stroll or two, avoiding the rush of the crowd around the main temple, just letting it all be.
The inverted lotus-shaped dome embellished with 100 kg worth of gold and the intricate marble work is an amalgam of both Hindu and Islamic styles of architecture.
2. Wagah Border
(Ceremony timings – 4:15 pm in winter and 5:15 pm in summer)
Wagah Border in Punjab, situated 28 km away from Amritsar and 22 km away from Lahore, serves as the India-Pakistan Border. From a bridge nearby you can get a light glimpse of the distant Lahore. The closing ceremony at the border, also known as the Beating Retreat Ceremony, is performed by both the Indian and Pakistani soldiers on both sides of the dividing line. During the sunset, the soldiers lower both the flags as a symbol of camaraderie and the receding political rivalry between India and Pakistan.
It is advisable to reach the border one hour before the initiation of the ceremony, which is performed for around 30 minutes. It can get quite crowded even though the ceremony is carried out on a day-to-day basis, and it is certainly one of the reasons why tourists visit Punjab.
3. Jallianwala Bagh
Timings – 6:30 am to 7:30 pm
The history of Jallianwala Bagh in Punjab resounds on its brutality and the mass genocide undertaken by the British force. On the occasion of Baisakhi, the British battalions ordered a violent charge on the peaceful gathering of hundreds of people celebrating the joyous festival.
In memory of the lives sacrificed in the one-sided massacre, a statue was erected post-independence to honour the lives of the lost. A wall vouching for the bullet wounds and a well that was used as an escape also speak for the dead.
4. Partition Museum
Timings – 10 am to 6 pm (except Mondays)
Entry fee – Rs. 10 for Indians, Rs. 250 for foreigners, free for children below 5 years old, free for partition survivors.
The memoir of Partition. The memoir of the old black-and-white photographs donated by the survivors and their families. The memoir of the rare and resilient artifacts of scattered individuals of Punjab.
The red building on Heritage Street, reminiscent of a fort, preserves the partition of India and Pakistan. Photography is strictly prohibited inside the museum and it remains closed on Mondays.
5. Hall Bazaar
Amritsari Jutti and Phulkari embroidery – two of Amritsar’s treasures can be picked up from Hall Bazaar, one of the oldest markets in India. Apart from them, Kulfa, street food, and the best restaurants can also be found in the Hall Bazaar area of Punjab.
6. Gobindgarh Fort
Timings – 10 am to 10 pm
A Cultural theme park with a historical museum, one of the most famous forts in Punjab, Gobindgarh Fort showcases the Punjabi culture in its assortment of war weapons, household antiques, and traditional attires.
Also read – ‘Vintage Village’ in Uttar Pradesh Will Take You to Rural India
How to Travel across Punjab on Budget
While hotels in Chandigarh, Patiala, and Amritsar can be expensive, in my opinion, this is also the place where you can spend the least amount of money. How so?
Gurudwaras. Every city in Punjab has a Gurudwara. You can always stay at a Gurudwara for free and have food in the Langar Hall at fixed times. The Langar at The Golden Temple remains functional 24 hours and food gets served to thousands of people all-day and all-night long. You can hover over a blanket from the Gurudwara authorities and stay the night free of cost. Rooms are also available for Rs. 500 at The Golden Temple.
When in Patiala, Shri Dukhniwaran Sahib Gurudwara can be your shelter for the night.
How Safe is Punjab for Solo Female Travellers
No, it’s not unsafe, don’t be alarmed! I, for one, have come back in one piece, and so do the majority of people. However, the overall environment of Punjab is not wholesome.
You will get loads and loads of stares, even in Amritsar, which should have been accustomed to solo female backpackers by now, being the most popular tourist destination in Punjab. Sometimes it would confuse me if it’s because of my huge backpack or my gender people are constantly staring back. Later on, I got the same kind of stares without the backpack. So yeah, I believe it’s the gender thing! And of course, the fact that I am alone!
As mentioned earlier, in Ludhiana I had my first negative experience with Couchsurfing. My host had the sweet intention of taking me to a hotel room, with the hesitant excuse of not having a nicely-constructed washroom in his own house. Without bothering to ask for prior permission, he started booking a hotel room and upon straight denial, he began to stalk me till the bus stand. Oh, he also blocked me almost immediately on Couchsurfing so that I couldn’t write a negative review. But you can always contact customer service and make them ban profiles!
Another interesting instance I want to share is more on this line, but quite a common phenomenon in most of the major cities in India. On my last day in Punjab, while waiting at Amritsar Railway Station for the 10 pm train to Dehradun, I had to endure obscene gestures from a local coolie (as presumed). Lying on his back on a public bench, he started stroking his penis while looking jovially at me! At first, he did it while standing, and I, the endurer of the Indian status quo from an early age, started photographing him around. That led him to the bench, with what I thought to be a twinkle of fear. When my camera lens directly met his eyes, he hid himself inside a random train compartment, and I never saw him again!
But I also met nice people! My first Couchsurfing host in Punjab is quite inspiring; he cycled from Chandigarh to Ladakh in 23 days in perpetuity. Not just once, 11 times! I met a student in the railway station who gifted me his pen once he got to know that I am a blogger (and his friend later started texting me on Instagram ‘Send me your pictures!’).
So, yes, nice people certainly crossed my path. But it’s the environment and the vibes! The locals kept telling me to be cautious in Punjab since the general atmosphere isn’t exactly genial.
Also read – Is Travelling/Hitchhiking across India Safe for Solo Female Travellers?
When to Visit Punjab
Wondering when to visit Punjab? You can imagine how the weather can be during the summer months on the plains. This place is surely not recommended in summer (April – June). The best time to visit Punjab is the beginning of receding monsoons and the wintry months. It is pleasant within the months of October-March.
Where to Stay in Punjab
Where to Stay in Amritsar
- Nutz Backpackers’ Hostel in Amritsar. The most budget-friendly backpackers’ hostel in Amritsar and also the cleanest and most organized hostel I have ever been in. From the homely decor to clean bathrooms, from a reading space to a kitchen open to self-cooking for no additional charges, it has the most convenient location (only 2 km away from The Golden Temple). All this for Rs. 150 per dorm bed (which may vary seasonally). They also organise guided tours and turban classes in Punjab, if that interests you. Contact details – 9988862442.
All the above-mentioned hostels and guest houses have private rooms as well (not just dormitories in the hostels).
Where to Stay in Chandigarh
Couchsurfing in Chandigarh
If you intend to Couchsurf in Chandigarh, I would highly recommend Mani. His house is on the outskirts of Chandigarh, beautifully decorated with a lot of space. But yeah, it’s far from the general attractions of Chandigarh, you should be aware of that.
Private Rooms in Chandigarh
Where to Stay in Patiala
Spot On 68349 Kaka Hotel in Patiala, Punjab. For Rs. 500, you get a double-bed AC room just near the bus stand.
How to Reach Punjab
Now, how do you reach Punjab? The most amazing thing is almost every city has a railway station. Whether you are aiming for Patiala, Amritsar, or Chandigarh, you can ride a train from Delhi or any other city and get dropped directly to the city of your choice. Or, you may opt for any of the five airports Punjab has – Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport in Amritsar, Bathinda Airport in Bathinda, Sahnewal Airport in Ludhiana, Pathankot Airport in Pathankot, and Patiala Airport in Patiala (no commercial flights are allowed).
How to Reach Amritsar from Delhi
Since Amritsar is where the tourists go straightway, let me give you a small tour of the transportation options.
By bus – In approximately 7 hours you can reach Amritsar from Delhi via roadways buses, which require no prior booking.
By train – The train from Delhi to Amritsar Railway Station in Punjab also takes around 7 hours. This is the most convenient mode of transportation.
By flight – The fastest way to reach Amritsar is by flight, taking a little more than one hour to reach Sri Guru Ram Dass Ji International Airport.
How to Reach Chandigarh from Delhi
Being the capital of Punjab, Chandigarh is easily accessible from all over India. Overnight HRTC bus from Manali in Himachal Pradesh is how I pursued my journey.
By bus – The distance from Delhi to Chandigarh is 246 km. It takes around 5 hours to reach Chandigarh from Delhi by bus.
By train – It takes less time to reach Chandigarh if you are travelling via railways. In approximately 3 and a half hours, Chandigarh Railway Station can be reached.
By flight – Chandigarh International Airport is only 50 minutes away from Delhi.
How to Reach Patiala from Delhi
Patiala is a must-visit and highly recommended to wholeheartedly devour the spirit of Punjab. Here is how you can reach Patiala from Delhi.
By bus – From Delhi get on the bus for Ambala (3 hours 60 min). And then another bus from Ambala would take you to Patiala in an hour.
By train – 5 hours of a train journey from Delhi to Patiala Railway Station, and viola!
By flight – Even though Patiala has an airport, it’s not for the usage of commercial flights. The nearest airport is Chandigarh International Airport, from where you can easily get a bus to Patiala through Ludhiana in Punjab.
Inter-city transportation
The most budget-friendly and convenient mode of sightseeing within a city is shared auto. Autos are everywhere. For a meager amount of Rs. 40-50, you can easily reach from point A to point B.
I hope you take on your own journey to Punjab and get a better understanding from this travel guide to Punjab. If you have any questions about travelling to Punjab, feel free to ask!
Have you been to Punjab? How has your experience been?
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